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St Ives travel guide

Sandy beaches, breathtaking views, glorious food and oodles of culture – what better way to get away from it all than an escape to idyllic St Ives?

Published: November 10, 2022 at 2:30 pm

With its sandy beaches, mild climate, sea views and captivating light, the West Cornwall fishing town of St Ives has drawn in travellers in search of peace and renewal since the railway first came to town in 1877. For 100 years it has also been a magnet for artists: Bernard Leach, ‘the father of British studio pottery’, and Shoji Hamada established the Leach Pottery here in 1920, and Barbara Hepworth and her husband Ben Nicholson settled here at the outbreak of the Second World War. Through the 1950s and 1960s,St Ives was a centre for abstract Britishart.

Today, it continues to support athriving artistic community and ishome to the recently revamped andexpanded Tate St Ives.Avoid the pitfalls of bringing a carand arrive instead as those firstholiday-makers did – by train. All themain lines come into St Erth whereyou change for the 20-minute branchline journey along cliffs and throughdunes, with spectacular views of thesea. It is one of the prettiest train ridesin the country and will deposit you atthe station at the top of town, restedand raring to go.

What to do in St Ives

St Ives harbour

Begin your day with a leisurelymorning stroll around the harbourand shore to get your bearings. Thereare four lovely beaches encircling thetown: Porthminster, the closest to thetrain station; Harbour Beach, with itsfishing boats and lifeboat launch; thesmall, family-friendly Porthgwiddenand west-facing Porthmeor, favouredby surfers.From Smeaton’s Pier, you can watchthe fishing boats come in with theirmorning catch, often followed by anosy seal or two. Seals and dolphinscan be seen in the bay all year roundand there are boat trips from theharbour to Seal Island, just a few milesout, where you can watch the residentsbasking on the rocks.

Visit Trenwyn Studio in St Ives

A hop and a skip behind the lifeboatstation you’ll find Trewyn Studio, onBarnoon Hill, home to the BarbaraHepworth Museum and SculptureGarden where the artist lived andworked from 1949 until her death in1975. Preserved much as it was whenshe lived here, it is a fascinating andatmospheric place to visit and holdsthe largest collection of her work onpermanent display.

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Explore Tate St Ives

A five-minute walk away is Tate StIves.Winner of the Art Fund Museum ofthe Year 2018, the newly expandedgallery showcases the work of 20th centuryartists connected with St Ives,including Ben Nicholson, PeterLanyon, Barbara Hepworth, NaumGabo and Patrick Heron, along withtemporary exhibitions. The exhibitsare enhanced by breathtaking views ofthe Atlantic Ocean seen through thegallery windows. Make the most of theviews by stopping for a spot of lunch atthe rooftop cafe.

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Shopping streets in St Ives

After your morning’s dose of culture,spend an hour or two moseying aroundthe pretty cobbled streets andfishermen’s cottages of the ‘Downlong’area, just behind Harbour Beach.Starting on Fore Street andspreading away from the sea, the areais packed with shops, boutiques, craftgalleries and rest stops, offering allmanner of tempting treats. Fortraditional Italian hot chocolate, tryThe Pier Coffee Bar on Quay Street,while the Cornish Deli has a good choice of sandwiches,local cheeses and home-cured meats. Ifyou want to escape the crowds, headover to Olive’s inIsland Square, for a delicious Cornishcream tea.Revived by your scone and ready towork off that clotted cream, take abrisk stroll up the hill to the LeachPottery, at HigherStennack. It’s a half-hour walk fromthe harbour (you can also get a bus orcab there) and the views are fabulous.A place of pilgrimage for ceramicslovers, Leach’s studio was establishedalmost 100 years ago and is still aworking pottery. As well as theoriginal kiln and studio, there areexhibitions, pottery demos andworkshops, and a well-stocked shop.

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Porthmeor beach in St Ives

Daylight stretches well into theevening at this time of year, so makethe most of the long days and head toPorthmeor Beach for a sundowner.Here, you’ll find the Porthmeor BeachCafe, whereyou can dine on tapas and seafood orsip a cocktail while watching the sunset over the sea.

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Coastal walks and buses around St Ives

Spend your second day exploring thefantastic coastal scenery of this partof western Cornwall. The SouthWest Coast Path covers 630 miles ofwalkable coastline and the stretchesaround St Ives are some of the moststunning. As you don’t have time towalk all the way to Land’s End,combine a shorter walk with a ride onthe open-top bus, run by Kernow. FromSt Ives, the service heads south alongthe coast through Zennor, Gurnard’sHead, St Just and Sennen beforereaching Land’s End. You can thenreturn by the same route, or hop onanother bus down to Porthcurno,home to the famous open-air MinackTheatre, and back round to St Ives.As this is a jump-on, jump-offservice, you can spend as much timeas you like at the various stop-offs.For a spot of antiques shopping, headto Chapel Street in Penzance, home tothe likes of Daphne’s Antiques,Steckfensters and Chapel StreetArcade, among others.

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Lunch with views over St Ives

Whatever your route, be sure to factorin lunch overlooking the sea. Cheeseon Coast in St Ives, will rustle up a cheeseboardor picnic to take away, or forsomething a bit more substantial,The Gurnard’s Head does great pub lunchesand is on the coastal path.From nearby Zennor, (one stop upfrom Gurnard’s Head on the returnleg of the bus route) you can take abracing four-hour walk along aspectacular rugged stretch of thecoastal path back to St Ives. Oncethere, call into the SILCo. SearoomGastrobar for awell-earned St Ives Gin and tonicbefore heading home.

Where to stay in St Ives

St Ives Harbour Hotel & Spa

St Ives Harbour Hotel & Spa is one of St Ive's most luxurious hotels. With a range of rooms and boasting views over Porthminster Beach, it's a perfect location for exploring the surrounding areas.

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Flat 3

Flat 3 is a two bed self-catering apartment with sea views in the centre of St Ives. A great choice for anyone who wants to feel like they're in a home away from home.

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Ayr Holiday Park

Ayr Holiday Park is a camping and caravan park by Porthmeor Beach. A fin choice for those who like to be amongst nature or for families and children visiting St Ives.

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