In 1782, writer and artist William Gilpin published what is thought to be Britain’s earliest guide to picturesque tourism. Observations on the River Wye was a depiction of a journey down the river – illustrated with scenic sketches of ancient ruins and bucolic landscapes – which helped to make the Wye Valley one of the UK’s first tourist destinations. Wealthy Georgians flocked to the area to admire the lush greenery and romantic ruins, solidifying it as a place of beauty.
But the delights of Herefordshire (which approximately 45 miles of the River Wye meanders through) spread far wider than just the Wye Valley. These days, often overshadowed by the more popular nearby hotspots of Bath or the Cotswolds, Herefordshire remains an idyllic gem, without the crowds. The allure of the rural landscape endures, but it’s the charming towns – peppered throughout the rolling countryside – that offer a surprising haven of shops, eateries and, most importantly, antiques.
Sitting on the banks of the River Wye lies Hereford, the county’s cathedral city. Flanked by Ross-on-Wye half an hour to the south, Ledbury 30 minutes to the east, and Leominster, Kington and Bromyard a not-so-dissimilar distance to the north, the city is the perfect hub from which to visit the county’s smaller settlements. While a weekend’s stay will afford you the time to explore each of these locales, sojourn a little longer to truly appreciate the pastoral heritage and iconic black-and-white architecture that the county offers.
Shop
Hereford Independent Quarter
Walk down Hereford’s High Street and you could easily be fooled into thinking that chain stores dominate. But turn onto Church Street, a historic alley strewn with vibrant bunting and shadowed by the impressive cathedral, and you’ll discover the heart of Hereford’s Independent Quarter. Browse No. 28 Fabrics & Interiors (no28fabricsandinteriors.co.uk) for stylish homeware, Fodder (fodderlotionsandpotions.co.uk) for organic produce and freshly baked breads, and The Mousetrap (mousetrapcheese.co.uk) for local artisan cheeses. On a bright day, why not enjoy the latter two with a freshly brewed coffee, as you take a breather in nearby Castle Green?
Leominster
It’s impossible to single out just one shop in Leominster. A mere 30 minutes north of Hereford, this quaint market town is unequivocally Herefordshire’s antiques hotspot, with over 120 dealers to visit throughout its historic streets. Start your spree on Broad Street, which boasts a range of antiques shops, including No14, Stockmoor Antiques (stockmoorantiques.co.uk), medal and military specialist War & Son (warandson.co.uk) and treasure trove Leominster Antique Centre. The delightfully signposted Drapers Lane, home to Drapers Lane Antiques, and cute and cosy Drapers Lane Delicatessen (draperslanedeli.co.uk) leads you to Corn Square, where you’ll find The Merchants House, clad in the county’s iconic black-and-white timber. Its alluring monochrome façade hides a cornucopia of antiques, and a cafe with an enchanting walled courtyard – just the spot for some respite and afternoon tea.
Ross-on-Wye
Akin to Leominster, the bustling town of Ross-on-Wye is filled with plenty of antiques and interiors stores to happily browse. Start at Brookend Street for The Architectural Store (architecturalstore.co.uk), wall-to-wall with lighting, ironmongery and vintage treasures, then hop across the road to Thompson Trading (thompson-trading.co.uk) for antique collectables and curios. Wander up the hill to the High Street and you’ll find the likes of Inside Outside, Heavenly Homes and Gardens (heavenlyhomesandgardens.co.uk), and Lot 47, for decorative pieces, old and new. The town’s sandstone market house is home to a local gallery and gift shop, Made in Ross (madeinross.co.uk), where you can pick up a piece of art from a local maker. For elegantly rustic furniture, textiles, lighting, stationery and more, a detour in the car to Baileys Home Store (baileyshome.com) is a must.
Ledbury
Just along from Ledbury’s iconic 17th-century Market House – an imposing timber-framed building perched on stilts – sits Tinsmiths (tinsmiths.co.uk). Luring you in with a glorious pair of scissor-themed signs (the building had been a hardware store for around 200 years before), the shop stocks a carefully curated selection of fabric, ceramics, prints and more, sourced from designers and artisans across the UK. Find blankets from heritage mills, hand-thrown ceramics, beautiful kitchenware and a selection of antique textiles. For even more textiles, stroll along the Dickensian alleyway adjacent to the shop for their gorgeous fabric showroom.
Eat
33 The Homend
Unassuming in appearance, Ledbury’s micro restaurant 33 The Homend, is housed in an 18th-century Grade II-listed building. Hosting just 14 people at a time, the small, seasonal menu is cooked by a talented one-man kitchen, for a thoroughly intimate affair. Homegrown vegetables, rare-breed pork and locally sourced meat – think roasted loin of roe deer with oatmeal stuffing – and fresh Cornish fish feature. 33thehomendledbury.co.uk
Visit
Black and white villages
Hereford may be home to the 17th-century Black and White House Museum – also known as ‘the Old House’ – but it’s certainly not the only place to spot these quintessential buildings. Built with black-painted timber framing and whitewashed walls, these perfectly preserved buildings are a snapshot of life in the Jacobean era. Just north-west of the city lies a pocket of pure history that you can experience by bike, bus or car. The 40-mile circular Black and White Village Trail leads you through an opulent landscape of lush hopyards and abundant orchards to discover the likes of Weobley, Pembridge and Eardisland – each village a vision in black, white and green. For those keen to explore on foot, a 7.6-mile ramble from Eardisland to Shobdon Arches – a hilltop folly, whose arches once belonged to a nearby Norman church – will take you through the attractive village and past the Rococo Church of St John. Find full details of the route on the Visit Herefordshire website. visitherefordshire.co.uk
Brockhampton Estate
In 1664, the writer John Evelyn claimed, ‘Herefordshire has become in manner an entire orchard,’ referencing the sheer number of apple trees in the area. While in decline, the county still boasts over 3,000 orchards – the most of any county in the UK. Today, the impressive estate at Brockhampton claims to have the largest orchard cared for by the National Trust. The property is also host to a romantic 14th-century house, surrounded by a moat with an enchanting wooden gatehouse. Enjoy a wander around the grounds, adorned with ancient trees and spectacular views. nationaltrust.org.uk
Stay
Kingfisher Cottage
Designed by Herefordshire local and paint brand founder Edward Bulmer, Kingfisher Cottage is a stylish and sumptuous spot in the countryside, between Leominster and Kington, to rest your weary legs. The decor is as welcoming as you’d expect: a warm, mint-and-terracotta kitchen; calm, colour-drenched bedrooms; and panelled bathroom, brought to life with an energising zing of green. Put your feet up by the log-burner, flanked by a fabulous floral dummy board – antique furniture and characterful touches are in abundance. The traditional cottage offers a peaceful haven from village-hopping, with space for al fresco dining and even access to the private Bulmer estate. airbnb.co.uk
Green Dragon Hotel, Hereford
If you enjoy a side of heritage with your morning eggs, the Green Dragon is thought to be one of the country’s oldest hotels. With a history dating back over 900 years, the site was once host to an inn called the White Lyon – owned by the city’s bishops – where the stonemasons who built the nearby cathedral stayed. Renamed the Green Dragon in 1708, today the hotel possesses a collection of
83 tastefully furnished rooms, each with its own distinct charm. greendragonhotel.com
The Feathers Hotel, Ledbury
This characterful, traditional coaching inn enjoys a grand presence on the town’s High Street, and has been a beloved icon of Ledbury’s history for over 400 years. The quintessentially Tudor building has 20 plush bedrooms in which to enjoy a restful night’s sleep. feathersledbury.co.uk
Don’t miss
Hereford Cathedral
A unique treasure of Britain’s medieval heritage, the Mappa Mundi has long called Hereford Cathedral home. The celebrated relic is thought to have been created in around 1300, reflecting the philosophy of the medieval church, with Jerusalem at the centre of the world. Have a look for yourself inside the Romanesque-style building – not forgetting to take a moment to absorb the breathtaking architecture.
herefordcathedral.org
Symonds Yat
As we think back once more to William Gilpin and his reverent affection for the Wye Valley, there’s one beauty spot that’s certainly not to be left off the list. Straddling the River Wye and nestled in the heart of the valley is Symonds Yat, an iconic riverside location with three distinct areas. The picturesque villages of Symonds Yat East and Symonds Yat West sit across the river from each other (the only way to reach one from the other without a long drive is via ferry), while Symonds Yat Rock offers panoramic views across the valley. Pick a pub (we recommend The Saracens Head Inn (saracensheadinn.co.uk) for
an idyllic spot by the water), or you can collect a sandwich or ‘ferryman’s lunch’ if an exploratory walk – or picturesque boat ride – is on the agenda.