In The Pickwick Papers, the revellers at Old Wardle’s sat down to a ‘mighty bowl of wassail’, an old country drink of hot ale, often thickened with eggs and with roasted apples bobbing in it. It was a drink for Christmas, New Year, or Twelfth Night, particularly in orchard counties, where revellers toasted the apple trees with wassail to bless the new year’s crops. Since modern beers become bitter when heated, cider is a good substitute
This recipe is from Christmas with Dickens, published by CICO Books (£9.99) Photography © CICO Books
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